Gyeongbokgung Palace and Chogyesa Buddha Temple

Saturday I took a city tour and saw some incredible architecture. First stop was Gyeongbokgung Palace, then the National Folk Museum, and finally the Chogyesa Buddha Temple.

“The palace was originally constructed in 1394 by King Taejo. Gyeongbokgung was continuously expanded during the reign of King Taejong and King Sejong the Great, but part of the palace was burnt down during the Japanese invasions of Korea (1592-1598).

During the regency of Daewon-gun in 1867, the buildings were reconstructed and formed a massive 330-building complex with 5,792 rooms. Standing on 4,414,000 square feet (410,000 square meters) of land, it was a symbol of majesty for the Korean people and the home of the royal family. In 1895, after the assassination of Empress Myeongseong by Japanese agents, her husband, Emperor Gojong left the palace and the imperial family would never return.

In 1911, the government of Japan demolished all but 10 buildings during the period of Korea under Japanese rule, constructing the Japanese General Government Building for the Governor-General of Korea in front of the throne hall. Oddly, the Japanese took many pictures of poverty in Korea, but did not take a single photo of this historic site.

After Korean independence, major buildings on the site included Geunjeongjeon, the Imperial throne room (national treasure number 223), and Gyeonghoeru Pavilion (national treasure number 224), which stands in an artificial lotus lake, resting on 48 granite pillars. The pavilion is depicted on the 10,000 won Korean banknotes.

Today the palace is open to the public, and houses the National Folk Museum of Korea. The National Museum of Korea was there too, until it was relocated to Yongsan-gu in 2005.
Many Koreans still hope to reconstruct part of the original palace. Archeological work has brought 330 building foundations to light. However, the original magnificence of the palace may never be fully restored. Fortunately, the main gate to the palace, called Gwanghwamun, is now being restored to its original state, to be completed in 2009.”

Chogyesa Temple is an important temple for Korean Buddhism. This is one of the few Buddhist temples actually within the Seoul city limits. Buddhist temples were moved into the mountains of Korea to escape persecution from invading countries. I noticed in the front yard of the Chogyesa Temple, stands a white pine and locust tree, each more than 400 years old. We happened to be there during the Buddha's birthday and hundreds of electric bulbs were strung across the trees and on the temple itself, presenting a magnificent sight. We heard one of the festivities of Buddha's birthday brings the "Feast of the Lanterns", which includes an evening lantern parade from Chogyesa Temple through the streets of Seoul, starting around 6.30 p.m. You'd have to check with a tourist office to see what date it occurs in April, depending on which day falls on the "eight day of the fourth moon." What impressed me most with this temple; its serene immediate surroundings, where just a block away was the noise, action and architecture of normal, modern Korean life. This could be quite a peaceful resting place for a quick city departure from hectic living.